Terryo

I'm planning to spend (alone) about two weeks in the Naples, Sorrento,
Amalfi Coast area and another two weeks in Sicily. I have some
questions:

1 - I'd like to swim at the beaches in Sicily. Will the water be warm
enough in May, or should I wait until September?

2 - All the travel guides (and posters here) recommend staying in
Sorrento and just taking a day trip to Naples. But it looks like the
sights I want to see in Naples will take at least three days. I
realize Naples is crowded, bustling, and (allegedly) crime-ridden, but
is it REALLY such a bad idea to stay there? I could stay in Naples,
e.g., 5 days, seeing Naples and Cumae, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius
-- then move on to Sorrento to stay for several more days, seeing
Sorrento, Capri and other islands, Positano and the Amalfi Coast, and
Paestum. It just seems that would be better than trying to do
EVERYTHING out of Sorrento, spending a lot of time commuting to
Naples, missing Naples nightlife, etc.....

3- I had planned to take the train from Sorrento to Sicily, but now
I'm reading that that is not such a good idea -- it's a long trip, the
trains are uncomfortable and schedules undependable (unlike those I've
ridden all over northern Italy). I've been told that a boat or
hydrofoil out of Naples or Sorrento to Sicily would be better. Is
this true? What are the relative costs and length of time? Would I
miss worthwhile southern Italy sights by doing this (e.g., Salerno)?

4 - I had planned to rent a car in Sicily, since I want to see ALL of
the island. But I would prefer to take a train between coastal cities
and bus to inland towns rather than bother with a car. Is that
feasible?

5 - Tips, things to see or avoid, recommended restaurants and hotels
(80 euro range), are very welcome. (I have Rick Steves's Italy and
the new Eyewitness Guides to Naples/Amalfi Coast and Sicily.)

Thanks to the group for your input.....

The Wests

    > 2 - All the travel guides (and posters here) recommend staying in
    > Sorrento and just taking a day trip to Naples. But it looks like the
    > sights I want to see in Naples will take at least three days. I
    > realize Naples is crowded, bustling, and (allegedly) crime-ridden, but
    > is it REALLY such a bad idea to stay there? I could stay in Naples,
    > e.g., 5 days, seeing Naples and Cumae, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius
    > -- then move on to Sorrento to stay for several more days, seeing
    > Sorrento, Capri and other islands, Positano and the Amalfi Coast, and
    > Paestum. It just seems that would be better than trying to do
    > EVERYTHING out of Sorrento, spending a lot of time commuting to
    > Naples, missing Naples nightlife, etc.....

We were in Naples. It is hectic but be cautious.

Check out the Campania Artecard (English link on left). We got a the
three day pass which included transportation in Naples. You might
consider the 7 day which would cover transportation to the big
archaeological sites.
http://www.campaniartecard.it/

One small restaurant you might try is Cantina della Sapienza, via della
Sapienza 40. Lunch only. Cheap, about 15 Euros. No credit.
Time Out says it is the nearest thing to Neapolitan home cooking you
will find in a restaurant. Good food, friendly, small. Near the hospital.

Lots to see in Naples. Enjoy!

Frances
Toronto, Canada

barney

In article <>,
(Terryo) wrote:

    > it looks like the
    > sights I want to see in Naples will take at least three days. I
    > realize Naples is crowded, bustling, and (allegedly) crime-ridden, but
    > is it REALLY such a bad idea to stay there?

Not at all. Naples may be a little rougher round the edges
(metaphorically, not geographically!) than some Italian cities but it's
hardly the den of cut-throats that its reputation suggests. The area
around Piazza Garibaldi is a bit dubious; other parts of the city centre
are as chic as you like.

We stayed earlier this year at the Pension Pinto-Storey, 72 Via G.
Martucci, in one such area. I heartily recommend it (friendly, big
attractively-furnished rooms, good breakfast, convenient location) with
one caveat: you mentioned nightlife, and this pensione has effectively a
curfew (midnight if I recall correctly), because it has no night staff
and is in a mixed-use building for which they can't give guests keys.

You mentioned some archaeological sites too. In Naples, don't miss the
Museo Archeologico Nazionale (national archaeological museum,
unsurprisingly) - you should allow a half day for this. I *think* the
ticket lets you go out and in again but don't quote me on that.

Me

(Terryo) wrote in message news:<>...
    > I'm planning to spend (alone) about two weeks in the Naples, Sorrento,
    > Amalfi Coast area and another two weeks in Sicily. I have some
    > questions:
    >
    > 1 - I'd like to swim at the beaches in Sicily. Will the water be warm
    > enough in May, or should I wait until September?

I always find the Med cold.

    >
    > 2 - All the travel guides (and posters here) recommend staying in
    > Sorrento and just taking a day trip to Naples. But it looks like the
    > sights I want to see in Naples will take at least three days. I
    > realize Naples is crowded, bustling, and (allegedly) crime-ridden, but
    > is it REALLY such a bad idea to stay there?

No, not if you really have things you want to do. The crime
thing has changed alot lately (although probably still not as
good as other areas).

    > I could stay in Naples,
    > e.g., 5 days, seeing Naples and Cumae, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius
    > -- then move on to Sorrento to stay for several more days, seeing
    > Sorrento, Capri and other islands, Positano and the Amalfi Coast, and
    > Paestum. It just seems that would be better than trying to do
    > EVERYTHING out of Sorrento, spending a lot of time commuting to
    > Naples, missing Naples nightlife, etc.....

Well, I guess I'd probably say stay in Naples when you're gonna
visit Naples, then move on. You may, or may not, find the "nightlife"
in Naples interesting. That's a tough one and only you can decide.

    >
    > 3- I had planned to take the train from Sorrento to Sicily, but now
    > I'm reading that that is not such a good idea -- it's a long trip, the
    > trains are uncomfortable and schedules undependable (unlike those I've
    > ridden all over northern Italy). I've been told that a boat or
    > hydrofoil out of Naples or Sorrento to Sicily would be better. Is
    > this true? What are the relative costs and length of time? Would I
    > miss worthwhile southern Italy sights by doing this (e.g., Salerno)?

If you have no plans to stop anywhere between Sorrento and Sicily,
I guess I'd take the hydrofoil. Not sure about the costs but you
should be able to find them online.

[snip]
    > 5 - Tips, things to see or avoid, recommended restaurants and hotels
    > (80 euro range), are very welcome. (I have Rick Steves's Italy and
    > the new Eyewitness Guides to Naples/Amalfi Coast and Sicily.)

I'm not exactly sure why you want to "camp" in one town so much.
Stay in the town you're visiting. I can understand some day tripping,
but I'd probably visit Sorrento, then move on to Positano and stay
there, and so on. But I'll admit some distaste for day tripping that
you may not share. Day tripping does mean more traveling, but it
does cut down on the packing.

If you do this, it may influence your train/boat decision to Sicily.
Going by boat, you may want to end up in Naples, whereas by train,
you might want to end up in Salerno.

Terryo

Thanks to all for your replies.

The Artecard is strange: the 3-day card includes full use of public
transit systems, while the 7-day card does not include any
transportation at all! But it's a good tip, and I'll see which one
best meets my needs. Maybe I can combine it with a separate multi-day
transit pass...

By nightlife in Naples, I just meant going out to dinner, and seeing
sights that are illuminated at night, and perhaps sitting and chatting
at a sidewalk cafe or doing a passagiata. That's how I usually spend
my evenings when I travel; I'm not into clubs or bars or dancing.....

I thought lodging in Positano would be considerably more expensive
than Sorrento; hence my idea to do it as a daytrip (or two). But
moving on down there for a couple of days would definitely be
preferable if I can fit it into my budget, since there is quite a bit
along that coast I would like to see....

The Wests

In article <>,
(Terryo) wrote:

When you go to the archaeological museum in Naples, be sure to ask for a
free ticket for the secret room. It's got some sexually explicit
artefacts that are very interesting. There was a tour guide when we were
there to introduce them - a little dry but interesting.

Also about the Artecard, there is one just for Naples and Campi Flegrei
and one for Campania. We used our Campania card to get in free to
Herculaneum and Pompeii, for the train (Circumvesuviana) both days both
ways, and then discounted entrance to other sites as well as local
transit in Naples.
http://www.inaples.it/eng/artecard.htm

We bought our tickets at the airport on arrival.

BTW, good transport from the airport to the city by public transport.
Get a map of the transit system when you get there - there are new
subway (metro) lines and stops.


Frances
Toronto, Canada

Webpecker

On 5 Nov 2003 16:25:05 -0800, (Terryo) wrote:

    >I'm planning to spend (alone) about two weeks in the Naples, Sorrento,
    >Amalfi Coast area and another two weeks in Sicily. I have some

    >2 - All the travel guides (and posters here) recommend staying in
    >Sorrento and just taking a day trip to Naples. But it looks like the
    >sights I want to see in Naples will take at least three days. I
    >realize Naples is crowded, bustling, and (allegedly) crime-ridden, but
    >is it REALLY such a bad idea to stay there? I could stay in Naples,
    >e.g., 5 days, seeing Naples and Cumae, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius
    >-- then move on to Sorrento to stay for several more days, seeing
    >Sorrento, Capri and other islands, Positano and the Amalfi Coast, and
    >Paestum. It just seems that would be better than trying to do

I suggest hotel Villa dei Misteri in Pompeii, 10 metres from the
Circumvesuviana rail-station http://www.vesuviana.it/home.asp and the
archaeological site (Villa dei Misteri gate). Very reasonably priced,
include a swimming pool too... Park there and comfortably travel back
to Naples or toward Sorrento, Amalfi etc...

Also consider Metrò del Mare (metropolitan sea transport) a navigation
system that covers the Campania coastline and Capri...
http://www.metrodelmare.com/inglese/
for rates and destinations: http://www.metrodelmare.com/tariffe.html

Derek F

"Terryo" <> wrote in message
news:...
    > I'm planning to spend (alone) about two weeks in the Naples, Sorrento,
    > Amalfi Coast area and another two weeks in Sicily. I have some
    > questions:
    > 1 - I'd like to swim at the beaches in Sicily. Will the water be warm
    > enough in May, or should I wait until September?
We went to Sicily in March and it was warm enough. For a real experience try
to get to Vulcano or Stromboli for a few days. Stromboli has a nice safe
usually active vulcano and black sand.

    > 4 - I had planned to rent a car in Sicily, since I want to see ALL of
    > the island. But I would prefer to take a train between coastal cities
    > and bus to inland towns rather than bother with a car. Is that
    > feasible?

We spent three weks travelling by bus and train. The trains are a bit slow
but it is much more interesting and relaxing. One problem was that stations
were sometime a bit out of town and often did not have a bus or taxi
service. We usually found that someone would offer us a lift into town.
    > 5 - Tips, things to see or avoid, recommended restaurants and hotels
    > (80 euro range), are very welcome. (I have Rick Steves's Italy and
    > the new Eyewitness Guides to Naples/Amalfi Coast and Sicily.)
We often stayed in private houses after meeting people on Hydrofoils or
asking about accommodation as we were there in the off season. We rented a
nice house one time and on Stromboli an exoctic bungalow right on the beach.
It had been designed by it's architect owner who also invited us to dinner.
Derek.

A.Spencer3

Derek F <> wrote in message
news:bohduj$39v$...
    > We went to Sicily in March and it was warm enough. For a real experience
try
    > to get to Vulcano or Stromboli for a few days. Stromboli has a nice safe
    > usually active vulcano and black sand.

Always wanted to do so. And UK papers are now advertising an 8 days package
in the Aeolian Isles for £399. OK - it's a package. But looks like an
effective and economical (flights, transfers, hotel, half-board) way in
which to 'do' the volcanoes.

Surreyman

Derek F

"a.spencer3" <> wrote in message
news:8G3rb.962$...
    > Derek F <> wrote in message
    > news:bohduj$39v$...
    > >
    > >>
    > > We went to Sicily in March and it was warm enough. For a real experience
    > try
    > > to get to Vulcano or Stromboli for a few days. Stromboli has a nice safe
    > > usually active vulcano and black sand.
    > >
    > Always wanted to do so. And UK papers are now advertising an 8 days
package
    > in the Aeolian Isles for £399. OK - it's a package. But looks like an
    > effective and economical (flights, transfers, hotel, half-board) way in
    > which to 'do' the volcanoes.
    > Surreyman
There is not much accommodation on Vulcano or Stromboli. We were very lucky
not to be sleeping on the beach. The journey to the islands can be quite
rough.
Derek.