City breaks generally involve a lot of walking, for the most part on
paved surfaces. It's pretty well inevitable that one becomes footsore.
By day 3, sparing the feet had become an important consideration.
We adjusted our programme. The fine art (Chagall) could wait until we
next visited Nice; we were taking the morning off, and the afternoon
programme had to be built around the idea of sitting down.
Fortunately, the gare for the Nice-Digne narrow-guage railway was only
a short hobble from our hotel. We got there, studied the timetable,
and figured that we might go about half the length of the line and
then return. We sought the advice of the young man at the billeterie,
and he suggested that we visit Entrevaux. We bought our tickets and
boarded the train (which was a single railcar).
The train rattled out of the station, through the streets of Nice, and
then started to climb bravely. We passed through a series of tunnels
and after a short while we found ourselves travelling alongside the
Var river, heading into the mountains. A blue river, suggestive of
melted snow, a jumble of rocky mountains, houses and villages in
improbable places, terracing which looked ancient, the occasional
vineyard, all lit by springtime sun under a blue sky -- this was
seriously WOW! stuff, and a striking contrast to the previous day's
trip to Monaco.
We arrived at Entrevaux, and disembarked. More magic: a fully-walled
small town below a hilltop fortress (it was, apparently, once a border
defence for France).
Our battered feet were conscripted into service once more, and we did
the circuit of the town -- cobbled streets, ancient buildings, a
mini-cathedral (very dark, as it's a bad idea to have big windows in a
place which might be attacked), steps and slopes (oh, our aching
feet!), no traffic (impossible terrain for cars). The train schedule
did not allow us enough time to climb up to the fortress some hundreds
of feet above (a great excuse, don't you think?), and I'm sure we
missed out on stunning views.
There was just time to have beer and sandwiches before catching the
train back.
This trip was a highlight -- probably the highlight -- of our visit to
Nice, and I recommend it to all. Advice: get an early train, to allow
more time for stops or to travel the full length of the line (150 km.,
a little over 3 hours); try to get seats on the left of the train from
Nice for the better views; board the train early, as it can fill up
and leave you standing.
Back in Nice, we sought dinner. Our feet were not up to our customary
approach of exploring and making on-the-spot assessments of
restaurants; we settled on the first half-decent looking place we
found. This was the Coté Grill, Avenue Jean Médecin. It is one of a
chain, and inexpensive. But for a formula restaurant, it was very
good. I was brave (or foolhardy) enough to order scallops, even though
it was a fair bet that they would come out of the freezer. They were
good, and fairly tender. The selection of cheeses was limited, but the
quality was high. The dessert buffet was a gourmand's dream. Very good
cheap eating.
And then we limped back to the hotel, and bed.
__________________
PB
The return address has been MUNGED